Washing Trainers in the Washing Machine: The No-Damage Method

Most internet advice on washing trainers in the washing machine ends in tears: warped soles, peeled glue, knackered air pockets, or the inside of your machine looking like it lost a fight with a bucket of mud. The label inside almost every trainer says “do not machine wash”. So is everyone who casually drops their white Air Force 1s into the drum doing it wrong, or is the label just brand caution?

Honest answer: a bit of both. Some trainers go through a washing machine perfectly fine if you do it right. Some genuinely shouldn't. The trick is knowing which is which, and using the right cycle, water temperature, and protection.

Here's the proper UK guide. Three years of doing it weekly for a family with two muddy school-runners and one runner who treats white trainers as a personality trait.

Can you actually wash trainers in the washing machine?

For most everyday trainers — canvas, mesh, synthetic fabric, modern sport shoes with sealed soles — yes, with the right method. For some trainers, no. Don't machine wash:

• Leather trainers — water and tumbling will warp, crack and discolour the leather permanently
• Suede trainers — water damage is usually irreversible
• Vintage / collector / high-value — just don't. Brush and spot clean.
• Hand-painted or printed designs — the print will lift
• Trainers with reflective material or 3M panels — tumbling damages the reflective coating
• Carbon-plate running shoes (Vaporfly, Adios Pro) — machine washing damages the carbon plate alignment
• Anything with a label that explicitly says “do not immerse in water” — this is stronger than “do not machine wash”

For everything else — canvas Converse, white leather-look synthetics, mesh runners, school trainers, dirty kid's shoes — the method below works reliably.

The no-damage method, step by step

Step 1 — Remove laces, insoles, and loose dirt

Pull the laces out completely. Pull the insoles out (most modern trainers have removable insoles; pry gently with a fingernail at the toe end). This protects the laces from tangling and the insoles from clumping or warping in the dryer.

Then bang the trainers together over a bin or outside to knock off loose dried mud. A stiff brush across the soles removes stones, glass, or anything that could damage your washing machine drum.

Step 2 — Pre-treat visible stains

Apply a small amount of washing-up liquid (Fairy, our FreshRinse dishwasher sheet dissolved in warm water, or any gentle detergent) directly onto visible stains on the fabric or canvas. Work in gently with an old toothbrush or soft-bristled brush. Don't scrub aggressively; you're loosening the dirt, not removing it yet.

For white trainers with set grime, sprinkle a little bicarbonate of soda over the wet detergent before brushing — the abrasion lifts ground-in dirt. Leave 5 minutes before going to step 3.

Step 3 — Put trainers in a mesh laundry bag

This is the single most important step that internet guides skip. A mesh laundry bag — the kind sold for delicates and bras, £3 from any supermarket — protects the trainers from banging against the drum and protects the drum from being damaged.

One trainer per bag if possible, two if your bag is large enough that they have room to move. Don't shove them in tight; the agitation is the wash.

Step 4 — Add an old towel to the load

This is the second most important step skipped by most guides. The towel acts as a cushion — it absorbs the noise, reduces the impact of the trainers against the drum, and balances the spin cycle (which otherwise vibrates the machine alarmingly with just trainers).

One large or two medium old towels for a normal load of trainers. They get washed at the same time; bonus.

Step 5 — Wash on the right cycle

Three settings that matter:

• Temperature: 30°C maximum. Anything hotter warps glues and softens the foam in the sole. Cold (20°C) is fine. Never hot.
• Cycle: Delicate / Wool / Hand wash cycle. Low spin speed, gentle agitation. Avoid “cottons” or “synthetics” cycles — they spin too aggressively.
• Spin speed: 400–600 rpm maximum. Higher spin speeds damage the trainer construction and put serious load on your washing machine bearings.

For detergent, use half the normal amount of a gentle, residue-free detergent. Our BioPure Laundry Sheets work well at half a sheet for this load. Avoid fabric softener — it coats the mesh and reduces breathability of the trainer.

Step 6 — Wash laces separately in a small mesh bag

Put the laces in a smaller mesh bag (or a sock with a knot tied at the open end) and add it to the load. They'll come out clean without tangling.

For very white laces with grey wash, a 30-minute pre-soak in cool water with a tablespoon of bicarbonate of soda before the wash works well.

Step 7 — Air dry. Never tumble dry.

This is the step where most people undo all the careful work. Tumble drying trainers warps the soles, melts the glue, and shrinks the upper. Don't do it. Even on low.

Air dry method:

• Stuff each trainer with crumpled newspaper or a dry tea towel. This absorbs moisture from the inside and holds the shape. Change the paper after 4–6 hours.
• Place upside down on a drying rack or against a wall, so water drains down through the trainer.
• In a well-ventilated room. Not direct sunlight (UV yellows white synthetic uppers).
• Allow 24–48 hours for full drying, longer in winter. Damp trainers in a cupboard grow mould.

If you genuinely need them fast (school in the morning), an airing cupboard with the door open, or a dehumidifier in the room, accelerates the process. Direct heat (radiator) damages the trainer construction over time.

Step 8 — Re-lace and replace insoles when bone dry

Insoles often dry faster separately on a rack. Re-thread the laces when the upper feels dry to the touch (no residual cold-damp). Stuff them again with paper for a few more hours if you're not wearing them immediately.

Cycle settings for specific trainer types

Common mistakes that ruin trainers

• Skipping the mesh bag. Trainers banging directly against the drum can dent the trainer, damage the drum, and the eyelets can snag the rubber drum seal. Always bag.
• Washing without a towel. Just trainers = an unbalanced spin cycle that vibrates the machine. The towel cushions and balances. Skip this and you'll either hear an alarming bang on the spin, or your machine will refuse to spin and try to redistribute.
• Hot water. Anything above 40°C softens the glue holding the upper to the sole. Stick to 30°C maximum. Cold is fine.
• High spin speed. 1000+ rpm puts huge force on the trainer construction. 400–600 rpm is plenty.
• Tumble drying. Heat is the biggest enemy of trainer glue and sole foam. Never. Even on low.
• Drying on a radiator. Same problem, slower. Air dry only.
• Direct sunlight. Yellows white synthetic uppers in a single day.
• Washing with detergent only, no pre-treatment. Detergent can't reach ground-in mud or stains in a single 40-minute wash. Pre-treatment is what makes the trainer come out actually clean.
• Fabric softener. Coats the mesh, reduces breathability, makes feet sweatier afterwards. Skip it.
• Bleach. Weakens fibres, yellows white synthetics over time (counterintuitive but true), and damages stitching. Bicarbonate of soda is the better whitener.

Hand-cleaning when machine washing isn't an option

If your trainers are on the “don't machine wash” list, here's the proper hand-clean method that gets 90% of the result:

1. Remove laces and insoles
2. Brush off loose dirt with a stiff dry brush
3. Mix warm water + a teaspoon of gentle detergent in a bowl
4. Dip a soft brush (a toothbrush works) and gently scrub the upper in small circles, working a small area at a time
5. Wipe with a clean damp cloth to lift detergent residue
6. For soles: a separate brush with warm water + bicarbonate of soda paste
7. Stuff with newspaper, air dry 24–48 hours

For leather: skip the brush, use a damp microfibre cloth with a tiny drop of saddle soap or dedicated leather cleaner. Don't soak.

For suede: a suede brush + suede eraser for marks. Never water.

What about white trainers specifically?

Three things that work for keeping white trainers white:

• Wash regularly. Light grime comes off easily; set-in grime is permanent. A monthly machine wash on dirty trainers prevents accumulation.
• Bicarbonate of soda pre-treatment. Make a paste with water, work into stained areas with a brush before washing. The mild abrasion lifts surface grime.
• White vinegar in the rinse. Add a splash to the fabric softener compartment of your washing machine when washing trainers — strips the alkaline residue that yellows white synthetics over time.

Magic erasers (melamine foam sponges) also work surprisingly well on stubborn marks on the white rubber soles — rub gently with a damp magic eraser, wipe off the residue. Don't use on the fabric upper; they're too abrasive for that.

The honest summary

Most everyday trainers go through a washing machine fine if you:

1. Pre-treat visible stains
2. Use a mesh bag
3. Add a towel for cushioning
4. Run on 30°C delicate at low spin
5. Air dry stuffed with paper

Don't machine wash leather, suede, vintage, carbon-plate running shoes, or anything with reflective panels or hand-painted designs.

The method takes 5 minutes of setup, 40 minutes of wash time, and 24–48 hours of drying. A muddy school-run pair comes out clean and ready for school by Monday if you wash Friday evening.

Frequently asked questions

Can you put trainers in the washing machine?

Most everyday trainers (canvas, synthetic, mesh) can be machine washed safely on a 30°C delicate cycle with low spin, inside a mesh bag, with a towel for cushioning. Don't machine wash leather, suede, vintage, hand-painted, or carbon-plate running shoes.

What temperature should I wash trainers at?

30°C maximum. Higher temperatures soften the glue holding the upper to the sole and warp foam. Cold water (20°C) is also fine and gentler on the trainer construction.

Do you put trainers in a mesh bag in the washing machine?

Yes. A mesh laundry bag protects the trainer from banging against the drum, protects your machine's drum and seals from being damaged by eyelets and grommets, and contains any loose bits. £3 from any supermarket. Use one trainer per bag if your bag is small, or both if it's spacious.

Should I add anything else to the load when washing trainers?

An old towel or two, yes. Trainers in a drum by themselves create an unbalanced spin cycle that vibrates the machine and stresses the bearings. A towel cushions and balances. The towel can be a dirty one that needed washing anyway.

Can you tumble dry trainers?

No — never, even on low. Heat is the biggest enemy of trainer glue and sole foam. Tumble drying warps soles, melts glue, and shrinks the upper. Air dry stuffed with paper for 24–48 hours.

How do I dry trainers fast?

Stuff with crumpled newspaper or kitchen roll (change every 4–6 hours), place upside down on a drying rack in a well-ventilated room with a dehumidifier if you have one, or in an airing cupboard with the door slightly open. Don't use direct heat (radiator, hairdryer) — it damages the construction.

What detergent should I use for washing trainers?

A gentle, residue-free detergent at half the normal dose. Eco laundry sheets (like our BioPure sheets) work well at half a sheet because the pH 6–7 formula won't damage the trainer construction. Avoid fabric softener — it coats the mesh and reduces breathability.

Can I wash leather trainers in the washing machine?

No. Water immersion damages leather permanently — warps, cracks, and discolours. Clean leather trainers with a damp microfibre cloth and a tiny amount of saddle soap or a dedicated leather cleaner instead.

How do I clean white trainers without bleach?

Pre-treat stained areas with a paste of bicarbonate of soda and water, gently brushed in with an old toothbrush. Machine wash at 30°C delicate as above. Add a splash of white vinegar to the fabric softener compartment to strip the yellowing alkaline residue. A magic eraser on the white rubber soles handles the stubborn marks.

Will washing trainers damage my washing machine?

Not if you use a mesh bag and add towels for cushioning. Without those, trainers can dent the drum, snag the door seal, or unbalance the spin cycle enough to stress the bearings. Bag + towel = safe.

Got a trainer-cleaning question we haven't covered? Email us — family of three, no support script.